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【風格設計】「溫柔式女權」主義在COMPLEMENTAIR驚豔綻放     作者：COMPLEMENTAIR

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读加缪
他写荒谬的目的并非荒谬
而是找出人生所不能怀疑的东西
现代哥特处处充满矛盾对立关系的冷峻实验亦如是

 
 
《In the name of the gothicdeductive dark Unruly》
 
暗黑系中的主流派系，以Rick Owens，Boris Bidjan Saberi，Maison Martin Margiela，Damir Doma等为主，从一开始的边缘领域慢慢进入大众视线，并且开始迎合大众的审美以及需求。就男装而言,无论如何商业，骨子里还是带着那种桀骜不逊的叛逆。
 
Diablo department mainstream factions，accordingto Rick Owens, Boris Bidjan Saberi, Maison Martin Margiela, Damir Doma and so on ，the edge of the field from the start slowly into the public sight, and began to cater to the public's aesthetic and demand.In terms of men's clothing, no matter how business, or with the sort of proud and rebellious.
 
▲Rick Owens SS16 
图片自www.pinterest.com
 
▲Boris Bidjan Saberi
图片自www.pinterest.com
 
 ▲ Maison Martin Margiela
图片自www.pinterest.com
 
▲ Damir Doma
图片自www.pinterest.com
 
在暗黑时装领域真正能算为大师和开山鼻主的应属Rick Owens和Carol Christian Poell二位大神，自1994年在美国创牌的Rick Owens以讲究建筑廓形、以及著名的斜纹不对称剪裁开创了冷硬哥特风，并成为暗黑哥特风格中最具象征性最为大众所熟知的品牌。
 
In the field of dark fashion can really work for the master and complete nasal master should belong to Rick Owens and Carol Christian Poell, creates the brand in the United States since 1994 Rick Owens to pay attention to building silhouette, and the famous twill asymmetric clipping pioneered the style of chill gothic, and become the most symbolic and well-known diablo gothic style brands of the masses.
 
 
在造型方面，善于运用纵向的造型线和褶皱，并通过上轻下重的整体塑形和多件叠穿风格来强化整体视觉效果；
 
Modelling respect, is good at using the model of vertical lines and wrinkles, and through the light under heavy on overall shape and many fold wear style to strengthen the overall visual effect;
 
 ▲ Carol Christian Poell
  图片自www.pinterest.com
 
 ▲ Rick Owens SS16 
  图片自www.pinterest.com
 
 
剪裁方面，常用较为简洁的立体剪裁，经常使用斜裁等不对称剪裁方法；
 
Clipping, commonly used relatively compact stereo clipping, often used as asymmetric clippingmethod;
 
Rick Owens Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
 
 ▲ Carol Christian PoellRick Owens
图片自www.pinterest.com
 
 
面料方面，皮革、PVC、乳胶、亚麻等都属于常用材料；
 
Fabric, leather, PVC, latex, flax, etc are commonly used materi
 
 ▲ Rick Owens Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
图片自www.pinterest.com
 
 
颜色方面，一般以黑白灰为主，近来也逐渐延伸到海军蓝、深红、芥绿、土黄等色彩；
 
Color respect, general with black and white ash is given priority to, recently also gradually extended to the navy blue, deep red, mustard green, yellow and other colors;
 
 ▲ Rick Owens Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
图片自www.pinterest.com
 
▲ Rick Owens 图片自www.pinterest.com
 
 
图案和配饰方面，包括十字架、五角星、骷髅、T形十字章、太阳神之眼、腰封、金属钉、项圈、表现自我束缚的装饰线、歌剧风格的披肩、斗篷和长手套、锐角三角形皮鞋、手工皮靴等都是常见的暗黑哥特标志。
 
Design and accessories, including cross, five-pointed star, skeletons, ankh, eye of the sun god, waist sealing, metal nail, collar, express yourself bound of decorative thread, opera style shawls, cloak and long gloves, acute triangle leather shoes, boots and so on are common dark gothic symbol.
 
▲ Damir Doma图片自www.pinterest.com
 
近年来崭露头角的新锐设计师很多走暗黑哥特风格，来自伦敦的Gareth Pugh，Gareth Pugh2003年从英国圣马丁毕业后不久就创立了自己的同名品牌，很快就在时尚界红透半边天，被VOUGUE 主编Anna Wintour大为称赞、被时尚圈誉为Alexander Mcqueen第二，屡屡被传执掌Dior Homme和Alexander Mcqueen，无疑他就是下一个大师。事实上，Gareth Pugh在实验风格和高超技术上堪比Carol Christian Poell，而在主流接受度和商业潜力方面又不亚于Rick Owens，很有可能是暗黑哥特风格的集大成者。是继Galliano、McQueen后，吸引许多媒体目光设计师。品牌的设计理念充满了隐喻和象征，招牌设计则是关于“形式与内容”的实验性创作。他通常会使用一些“毫无意义的荒谬外形，可穿着的雕塑”等理念去“有意识的歪曲人体”。各种风格截然不同的元素混合在他的设计作品中，使得处处充满了矛盾对立的关系，给人丰富的视觉享受。
 
Young designers in recent years design dark gothic style, Gareth Pugh come from London,in 2003 years shortly after graduating from Britain's saint Martin created its own brand, the same name in fashion soon popular, Anna Wintour slammed by praise,  has been linked at the helm of Dior Homme and Alexander Mcqueen, there is no doubt that he is the next master.In fact, Gareth Pugh in experimental style and superb technology comparable to Carol Christian Poell, and in the mainstream acceptance and commercial potential as Rick Owens, is likely to be diablo gothic style.Is followed Galliano, McQueen, attract attention many media designer.Brand design is full of metaphor and symbol, trademark design is about "form and content of experimental creation.He often use some "meaningless absurd appearance, wearable sculpture" concept to "conscious distortion of the human body.Various style disparate elements mixed in his design works, that is full of contradictions, the relationship between gives a person rich visual enjoyment.
 
▲ Gareth Pugh2008图片自www.pinterest.com
 
▲ Gareth Pugh 2011图片自www.pinterest.com
 
 ▲ Gareth Pugh Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear
图片自www.VOUGUE,com
 
Rad Hourani曾经是加拿大非常著名的造型师，近年来在巴黎创建了自己的同名品牌。虽然也是走暗黑哥特路线，但是Rad Hourani比较同类更加时髦、精致，也更有实穿性，因此去年以来在法国成为时尚达人中的红牌，势头与Gareth Pugh有的一拼。而近期推出的走中价位路线的副牌Rad by Rad Hourani，无疑将进一步增加其知名度。
 
Rad Hourani was once very famous stylist in Canada, in recent years in Paris, created their own brand name.While also taking dark gothic line, but the Rad Hourani comparing similar more fashionable, delicate, and more solid wear resistance, thus become a red card in the fashionistas in France since last year, momentum and Gareth Pugh, some.And the recent launch of the go price line CARDS in the Rad by Rad Hourani, will further increase its visibility.
 
 ▲ Rad by Rad Hourani Fall/Winter 2012
图片自www.pinterest.com
 
▲ Rad by Rad Hourani Fall/Winter 2013
图片自www.pinterest.com
 
提及暗黑哥特风格，还有一个绕不开的的名字就是Guidi,这家顶尖的意大利皮革厂商不但成为包括Rick Owens、Gareth Pugh等暗黑名家的指定皮革供应商，而且有其所长：Guidi家的皮鞋和皮靴公认为各暗黑哥特系品牌服装的绝配；
 
Mentioned dark gothic style, there is a name of Guidi, the top Italian leather manufacturers not only become a Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, such as diablo masters designated leather supplier, but also strengths: Guidi's shoes and boots are recognized as the dark gothic brand clothing to match absolutely;
 
 ▲ 图片来源于网络
 
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