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既解放双手,又慰藉心灵

很想唱首关于它的赞美诗呢

 

 

   Bag is the“punchline”of foil femininity

        It freed our hands, decorate clothing, promote aura

       gives psychological sense of security

 


▲图片来自pinterest

 

16世纪文艺复兴顶峰时期,女性开始将手袋系于装束腰带上,由于当时衣物本身并无口袋设计,所以腰带上除了手袋还会系上重要物品如香丸、钥匙、祈祷书及匕首等。

The peak of the Renaissance in the 16th century,  females tie handbags in costumes on the belt, no pocket insideclothes at that time, so the belt in addition to the important items such as handbags will wear perfume pill for the key Prayer book even knives, etc.

 


▲图片来自pinterest

 

当时的搭扣手袋相比现代手袋,在搭扣上更简洁隐蔽,外观通常会制成城堡、城市或者教堂形状,有些还会带锁用以保藏贵重物品。

The emergence of the buckleshandbag, bag buckles now compared to concise and concealment, is often a city or castle church shape, some will lock in order to preserve the valuables。

 

▲图片来自pinterest

 

17世纪的包包主要为小型香包,里面会放上大量的玫瑰花瓣和珍贵香料,以及一些草药有效预防传染病,充满身份地位的象征属性。

17 th-century bags mainly small sachets, inside put a lot of rose petals and precious spices, often put some herbal medicine effective in preventing infectious disease, in this time the bag is the symbol of the identity and status.

 


▲图片来自pinterest

 

17世纪的包多用奢华的金银线,流苏、嵌花、亮片和丝带作装饰,受巴洛克风格影响严重。

This period bags multi-purpose luxury of gold and silver thread, tassel, applique, sequins and ribbon as a decoration, it is affected by the baroque style.

 



▲图片来自pinterest

 

法国大革命让服饰变得修身苗条,口袋无法再隐藏于衬衫之中。此时包包正式同服饰独立分离。手拎包开始流行,拥有存放胭脂、散粉、扇子、香水瓶、名片、卡片盒等功能。

The French revolution make clothing to cultivate one's morality fit,Pocket hardly in his shirt, bag and dress formally separated, hand bag became popular, There are storage of rouge and powder, fans, perfume bottles, business CARDS, cardfile functions。

 

▲图片来自pinterest

 

18世纪,丝绸包袋受洛可可风格影响,设计上多褶皱和花边。装饰上也有了更多隆重技巧,珍珠、金箔、金银线条纹都被广泛应用。织带包边,刺绣也更为精致。出现了火焰针法,能刺绣出类似火焰的纹样,也开始流行先用黑白线刺绣随后再补上彩色花卉和风景图案的款式。

In the18th century ,silk bags by the rococo style influence, bag fold and lace, decorative grand,  bags have more decorative techniques, pearl, gold foil, gold and silver line stripes are widely used, ribbon package edge, embroidery skills has more delicate, flame stitch, could embroidery out similar flame pattern, also popular with black and white line embroidery first then replenishfor all the colorful flowers and landscape design.

 


▲图片来自pinterest

 

19世纪,腰链风尚开始回归。钱包被挂于腰链上悬在腰间,或跨在手腕上。裙子腰线的升高也令包的造型更偏于小巧精致。铁口搭扣包亦重归大众视野。

Regression in the 19th century, waist chain, wallet was hung on waist chains hanging at the waist, also has a cross on wrist, skirt waist to bag cabinet modelling delicate, iron mouth buckle bag back into the public view.

 


▲图片来自pinterest

 

由于19世纪晚期铁路路线的开通,出行变得便捷,女性开始选择出门探索更多世界,为铁路出行而设计的手提旅行箱提供了流行契机。而行李箱中的隔层、扣件以及锁扣都成为包袋灵感的来源。

In the late 19th century the opening of the railway line, make travel convenient, women began to choose to go out and explore more of the world, designed for railway travel portable suitcase arises at the historic moment.And the inside of the suitcase interlayer, fasteners, and lock have become a source of inspiration for bag 

 

▲图片来自pinterest

 

20世纪,皮包设计开始充斥极强的年代感。20年代至30年代间平权运动风起云涌,女性开始拥有投票权,无手柄的手抓包随之兴起,女性可将其夹于手臂之间。受装饰艺术的影响,也由于几何图案和爵士音乐风行,手抓包外观呈流线型居多,寓意年轻和自由。

In the 20th century, bag design with strong feature, 20 s and 30 s affirmative action blustery, women had the  right  to vote, no handle hand bag caught emerging, women can clip on the arm, between the influence of decorative art, hand bag appear streamlined shape, geometric patterns and jazz music topicis a very popular, symbol of youth and freedom.

 


▲2O世纪的手拿包及整体LOOK,图片来自pinterest

 


▲波普风格的手拿包及整体LOOK,图片来自pinterest

 

由于小烟盒成为女士们出席交际场所的必备装饰,以及30年代好莱坞明星热的推动,永于专门存放粉底、唇膏的化装袋开始盛行,小盒式包包的设计遂随之被大量投入市场。在材料上,金属、金银及人工合成材质如玻璃晶等被广泛应用于小盒式包包制作中。

When small cigarette case became adornment of the ladies at communication place ,30 s Hollywood star heat storage foundation, lipstick popular cosmetic bags, small box package act the role of large launch into the market.Metals, gold and silver and artificial synthetic materials such as glass crystal have been widely used in bag making.

 


▲2O世纪小烟盒包及整体LOOK,图片来自pinterest

 


▲巴洛克风格的手拿包及整体LOOK,图片来自pinterest

 

50年代,为配合服饰的性感和妩媚走势,一系列箱包大牌迅速崛起,许多经典作品设计都出自这个时期:可可·香奈儿的金属链条可闭合方形包成为风光无二的单品;路易·威登的水桶包可承载香槟的大容量实用设计广受好评;爱马仕推出的HightBag由于皇妃格蕾丝凯莉用以遮盖孕态而身价暴增,索性将其命名为凯莉包。

The '50 s bags fo match clothing appeal to sexand enchanting, a series of big bag brand rapid rise, many classics design appreal this period: coco chanel metal chain can be closed square package become scenery no 2 item;Louis vuitton bag can carry champagne bucket big popular;Hermes launched HightBag after grace kelly concubine to cover the pregnant state value, simply named kelly.

 


▲Coco chanel和chanel2.55,图片来自pinterest

 


▲Louis Vuitton in vogue1952年10月,图片来自pinterest

 


▲格蕾丝凯莉手拎爱马仕凯莉包,图片来自pinterest

 

而60年代由于摇滚音乐的风靡,时装界开启了一场青春活力的迷你裙&裤装革命,年轻一代女性的独立需求也引发了大批新式包包的热潮,各式造型小巧,肩带长长、式样简洁的挎包以及狭窄的手拿包成为时髦。

In the '60 s, rock and roll music become popular , fashion is full of youthful vitality of the mini skirts and pants outfit design revolution, the grade of the younger generation of women also expect the emergence of the new package actc the role of various cabinet modelling, straps, style is concise and long narrow shoulder bag and hand bag became fashionable.

 


▲60年代的手拿包及整体LOOK,图片来自pinterest

 


▲巴洛克风格的手拿包及整体LOOK,图片来自pinterest

 

时代和潮流始终在变迁,包款亦经历了风格不同形状囧异的改良,但包这一重要饰物带给女性的心理欢愉和在穿搭中的点睛属性始终未曾改变。

As time and dress change to go forward, although each period style of different shapes, but not change the bag for style and pleasure.

 


▲20世纪60年代女性身着chanel套装手拿chanel包包,图片来自pinterest

 


▲PRE-FALL 2016chanel 秀场,图片来自pinterest

 



Street style IN CHANEL bag,图片来自pinterest 

 

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